The Manaslu expedition is a wholesome climbing adventure at a peak above 8,000m in the famous Khumbu region. Mt. Manaslu, standing tall at an altitude of 8,163m is also the 8th highest peak in the world and is located in the restricted Manaslu trekking region in the Midwestern region of Nepal, which is characterized by a very diverse landscape and an equally challenging opportunity for climbing. The peak towers steeply above its satellite peaks and is also the most noticeable and dominant peak, even when viewed from a distance. In comparison to the Cho Oyu and Sishapangma expeditions, the Manaslu expedition consists of more technical challenges, and climbers need to be in an excellent physical and mental state to undertake this expedition. One also needs to have a good level of climbing experience and adeptness to altitude at very high elevations. We at Ice Cap Adventure provide a complete and holistic service to maximize the success of a successful expedition of Mt. Manaslu.
We will follow the Budi Gandaki trial to reach Samagaon, where we will set up our first camp for acclimatization at an elevation of 4,600m. From there, we will climb up to reach the Manaslu Base Camp at an elevation of 4,750m. We will then carefully follow the bamboo marker wands on the top of Manaslu glacier by using fixed ropes to cross the very steep and dangerous sections and crevasses. The Manaslu Expedition High Camp 1 is set at an altitude of 5,700m at the base of the northern peak above the glacier in a protected area. Camp 2 is set on a safe section of the steep climb, on a relatively flatter area at an altitude of 6,400m. At this point, there will be very heavy snow. We will then climb up to reach camp 3 at a height of 6,800m. The distance is one of the shortest and will only take around three hours. Camp 3 is set below freezing to avoid strong cold winds. We will continue our ascent upwards on the steep glacier sections with safety to reach camp 4 at an elevation of 7,400 m, which is the final camp.
The ascent of the Manaslu peak normally begins in the evening and leads immediately up an average slope from the summit camp prior to reaching the first of the summit tables. There are altogether three separate levels before arriving at the last final pyramid slope. From there, we will take on another short and steep slope below the summit to reach the pre-summit area. To reach the top of the summit, we will have to cross an exposed technical traverse for roughly 70 meters with the help of fixed ropes. It will take about 8 to 9 hours to reach the top of the summit from camp 4. The next day, we will return to the base camp following the same route for the descent back to camp 4.